quinta-feira, 25 de fevereiro de 2010

terça-feira, 23 de fevereiro de 2010

Levanta a mão quem nunca mijou no long john...

Excelente texto no site da revista inglesa Slidemag.

My girlfriend read something I’d written on t’interweb the other day and reacted like a proper Daily Mail reading shocked of Tunbridge Wells-
“You really piss in your wetsuit?” she exclaimed in horror. ‘Err, yes. Everyone does, what of it?’ I replied.
“So you mean to tell me that even Kelly Slater pisses himself when he wears a wetsuit?” She -like most hot-blooded females I know- has a bit of a soft spot for The Bald One™ and whilst he may be the King he still needs a wee now and then; although as we all know he pisses excellence…
This got me thinking. Surfing has a dark damp secret. One that is curiously absent from the mainstream medias golden tinged Endless Summer ideal of what surfing is. Surfing is not all VW combis, beach parties, sunshine, attractive tanned people, wild sex, longboards, guitars and Jack fucking Johnson on the stereo as London ad agencies would have you believe. Far from it, but then again the more realistic version, the one you will actually see in Britain and Irelands beach car parks on a daily basis is as far from that rose-tinted ideal as possible. Namely: ugly, cold, pale-skinned people, wearing rubber suits, gleefully urinating on themselves as they nearly freeze to death and enjoying it. Which is wrong on so many levels. It sounds like a water sports website that even German lovers of all things gimp would find a bit gross.From early childhood we are taught that peeing your self is wrong. Wetting the bed is evil and will get you sent straight to damp pissy hell. In fact if you still piss the bed at a late age they consider you a mental. Pissing in public will get you a caution from the boys in blue and if you do it again -unavoidable after 10-pints of fight strength lager- you will get arrested. Not so in the more libertarian France where you are positively encouraged to piss outside anywhere, at any time, even when talking to an attractive femme, she will merely keep smoking her Gauloises and admire your rostbif while you do so. Fact.
So how it is that whilst in a wetsuit it is considered totally fine, nay, encouraged in the winter to have a good, long piss? Or am I talking completely out of left field here? Hands up who never pisses in their wetty. Thought so…
Jeez- I make sure I drink heaps before going out in the winter just to make sure I have enough in the tank for a couple of those delightful warming episodes.
So. Who else pees for fun when engaged in sports? I guess swimmers have sneaky ones, they kind of take it for granted they are swimming in a soup of water, chlorine, skin flakes and pee, they might as well make the pool water yellow and be done with the pretence. Canoeists, windsurfers and all our supposedly related surf disciplines like kiters and wakeboarders will all be pissy boys (maybe that’s why they wear boardies outside their wetsuits? To hide the stains?) Cyclists and marathon runners must have something taped to their bits cos stopping for a leak is gonna ruin your world record attempt? F1 and rally drivers probably just put a bolt in the end or something technical.
We are pretty unique. Hell, I’d even say we are more advanced, we aren’t repressed in relation to our bodily functions. A pee in the winter when the sub-zero temps are really starting to bite is a magical thing.
The only problem is modern wetsuit technology. It is getting too good. Time was a duckdive or good beating and you’d get a decent injection of cold North Atlantic briney to flush out the urea flourishing within. These day the wetties are so stretchy, so well cut, so frickin’ tech that hardly any water gets in- or more crucially out.
When I take my hooded 6mm off I steam. The wetsuit lining fabric is not wet, only damp patches from sweat, and the aforementioned downstairs mistake. So. This leads to an unenviable dilemma. When getting out from a winter session, when you have most definitely gone to the toilet on yourself, do you pull the neck out and go for the Atlantic flush of ice water. Or do you pretend you haven’t then hope no one smells the overpowering stench of piss in the car on the way home?
As long as everyone’s gone for option B then it’s fine. No one will mention it as everyone will be equally embarrassed.
I tend to go for option A, but I am a masochist.
The other question is when is it okay to wee? Some people think if the suits on then its toilet time. Be it in the car park or walking down the beach. But beware- I was ankle deep about to go out at the Peak in Bundoran a year or two back and just doing up me chest zip- which broke terminally. I couldn’t get it done up so retired peeved to the car. Regretting the piss I had done on the walk down. As I had to sit in the car for two hours covered in fresh piss waiting for everyone else to finish their session.
Going back to the disgusted partner of mine, who by now is looking at me like she caught me knocking one off too donkey porn, she had to ask- ‘Do you shit in your wetsuit as well?’
My answer- ‘Not intentionally.’ Not that I have. But I know people who have. Everyone does. When people are ill, it can be unavoidable, a shart in a wetsuit is probably the best place for it… and that’s a warmth that really does last.

Molecada on the rocks!


YOUNG GUNS - ON THE ROCK from quiksilverAus on Vimeo.

Aussie valinhas.


.TV/DION. The Cold Ghost. from GLOBE - Beren hall on Vimeo.

Michel Bourez

This is SPARTAAAAAAAAA!


The Spartan Readies for Battle from NiKE 6.0 on Vimeo.

segunda-feira, 22 de fevereiro de 2010

sexta-feira, 19 de fevereiro de 2010

CALIFORNIA TRIPLA

Surf em Santa Cruz, Snowboard em Lake Tahoe e skate em San Francisco. Tudo no mesmo dia.


California Triple from DOE Productions on Vimeo.

FERGAL SMITH


January with Fergal Smith from allan wilson on Vimeo.

quinta-feira, 18 de fevereiro de 2010

I`LL NEVER STAY ON THE SHOLDER

SAFE TRESTLES

Access to Trestles, one of North America’s most celebrated waves, is under threat due to safety and environmental concerns. Currently, over 100,000 people each year follow informal trails through wetlands and over active train tracks to gain access to the surf breaks at Trestles. These impromptu manmade paths present a safety hazard with passing trains and threaten the fragile ecosystem of Trestles.
In response, a coalition of concerned groups organized by the volunteer non-profit organization Architecture for Humanity, are launching “Safe Trestles,” an open-to-all, two-stage design competition to create a safe pathway to serve surfers, the local coastal community and day visitors to San Onofre State Beach. This coalition is looking for cohesive designs that eliminate the danger of crossing active train tracks, help to restore wetlands that have been damaged by the present path, preserve and improve vistas, and offer education about the history of the site and the beach marsh environment. The new path should ensure continued access to the resources by all members of our community and adhere to Americans with Disabilities Act (ADA) standards.
While placing no limitations on the originality or imaginativeness of design ideas, we are looking for tangible low-impact solutions that can actually be built at a future date. Ideally, the winning entry will be sensitive to the remote and undisturbed nature of the area—providing safe access without compromising the pristine environment and views of this rare example of natural Southern California coast.

http://openarchitecturenetwork.org/competitions/trestles 



sexta-feira, 12 de fevereiro de 2010

vó...

quinta-feira, 11 de fevereiro de 2010

quarta-feira, 10 de fevereiro de 2010

A BARBADA EM BARBADOS!

OZZIE IS THE MAN!!!





KICK FLIP

Keahana surfboard

segunda-feira, 8 de fevereiro de 2010