A good Keen surfer

Esse texto retrata fielmente o que acontece com a maioria de nós.
O tempo vai passando e a fissura diminuindo.
Mas não é com todo mundo, felizmente alguns de nós continuam debilóidemente fissurados e puxando os outros pra cima. Velhacos que acabam trocando o surf por algumas horas a mais de sono.

Um tapa na orelha do nego Bica, e um salve pro Zé, o loco mais fissurado que eu conheço.
E pros indião que não entendem inglês, fuck off.

Staying motivated to go surfing can sometimes be hard, especially as you get older.

Windy, cold conditions, crap waves and wet wetsuits can conspire to knock the stoke out of you. This can happen to even the most hardy of us, but not a good keen surfer.

They are one of those people who will go out no matter what and will enjoy it regardless of the conditions.

I used to surf with someone like this when I was younger. This good keen surfer would be getting into his wetsuit as soon as we got out of the car, while we’d be shuffling around looking at the waves and talking about maybe checking some other spot.

However, it was his keenness to that led to the discovery of one of our favourite breaks.

He led us on a 20-minute walk through the bush then around a stony headland to a wave that, from the distance, looked marginal at best. While that day only produced a few great rides, we were to get dozens more at that spot over the years.

I met another one recently. The surf was about waist high and there were already quite a few longboarders scrambling for waves. While I sat down to get set for a 15-minute debate on “should we, shouldn’t we”, he said: “I’m out there.”

As it turned out we had a fun surf, one which I probably would not have experienced had I not been with a good keen surfer.

Hopefully, you surf with someone like this regularly, or, better yet, are one yourself.

fonte-> www.rindingglass.com